Brass instrument care and maintenance

After every practice session

• Empty the water from the slides with the water key (or by turning the instrument on a horn). Condensation is water mixed with saliva.
• Wipe the outside with a soft clean cloth to remove skin oils and moisture, especially on lacquered instruments.
• Keep it in its case, with nothing heavy on top. A small knock on a thin tube shows in the sound.

Every week

• Oil the valves with oil made for valves: take the valve out carefully, wipe it with a lint-free cloth, add a few drops and put it back in the same position and orientation (valves are numbered and have a guide). Do not use cooking oil or oils meant for other machines.
• If your instrument has rotors (horn, some euphoniums and tubas), use rotor oil on the pivot points.
• Clean the mouthpiece with lukewarm water and mild soap using a proper brush. Rinse and dry it.

Every one to three months (depending on use)

1. Full bath: take the slides and valves out (if you know how), place the body in a bathtub with a towel underneath, with lukewarm water and mild soap. Lukewarm, not hot: heat damages lacquer. Run a flexible brush through the tubes.
2. Rinse well with lukewarm water and dry everything with cloths. Do not leave the instrument wet.
3. Grease the slides with slide grease, a thin layer. If a slide is stiff or stuck, do not force it: there may be a dent or corrosion.
4. Reassemble with the valves in place and oiled.

Slide trombone

The slide is the most delicate part. Keep the inner tube clean and lubricated with slide cream or liquid, and wet it with a bit of water from a spray bottle while you play. Never rest it on the floor or grip the outer part of an assembled slide: if the tube gets dented it stops sliding well. If the slide sticks, do not force it.

What to avoid

• Abrasive products: strong polishes or chemical cloths that wear lacquer or silver plating.
• Hot water or harsh dish detergents.
• Leaving the instrument in the sun or in the car: heat deforms rubber parts and dries out lubricants.
• Forcing stuck slides or valves. A damaged valve can be costly or impossible to repair.
• Leaving it unlubricated for months. Wear on valves is hard to reverse.

Corrosion and “red rot”

Brass instruments can corrode inside if not cleaned: saliva acids and moisture attack the metal. Over the years some brasses develop so-called “red rot” (dezincification), a deterioration that thins the tube walls. The best prevention is regular cleaning and drying the instrument well.

When to see a repairer

• Dents in the tubing, especially near bends or the bell.
• Valves or slides that stick despite cleaning and lubrication.
• Air leaks (the instrument seems to “lose” sound or responds badly).
• Loose solder joints, new metallic noises, or rattling when moving the slides.
• Replacing valve corks, felts or rubber stops.

An annual check by a brass repairer is a good investment, especially for an instrument you play often.

And the tuner

If after cleaning the instrument “sounds different”, test it with the tuner and the Intonation X-ray: a valve not seated properly or a slide left loose changes the tuning.

Next: fingerings explained.